Simplicity 8430
This versatile pattern features 3 sleeve variations and options for either a single or double-layered “shark bite hem.
Join me as I sew the Simplicity 8430 version D pattern.
What is a “shark bite” hem?
Quite simply, a “shark bite” hem looks like a shark took a bite out of the bottom of a top or dress.
It features two elongated sides and a shorter middle. This provides a top or dress with a dramatic drape.
Finding a suitable pattern for a mini fashionista…
I don’t know about you, but my 8-year-old is very picky about the clothes she wears! She has a vision for her style, and if it doesn’t fit, she won’t wear it.
Long gone are the days where I could pick clothes for her to wear and she would instantly love them.
So when I set out to make mommy and me and me too makes, I knew I would need her approval on the pattern selection.
I made this pattern for her a few years ago, and she LOVED the pattern! It had serious witchy vibes!
I knew that she liked this pattern but I wasn’t sure about the sleeves (these would be the short ones without the flare she adored). She insisted they would be fine, so I had my marching orders.
The only thing I had to figure out was how I (and by that I mean my daughter) wanted to arrange the pieces and fabrics.
I knew I wanted to keep the navy jersey on the upper half of the garment and the Liberty Collection Firework Sky on the lower half. This way all three outfits will appear as if they belong in a collection.
She insisted on “pops of color” for the sleeves and the neckband. I wanted to make them both navy!
I wanted her to feel comfortable in her top, so I allowed the alterations to the design. In the end, the top looked wonderful next to her sisters!
If you missed part 1, be sure to check out my Butterick 6549 make here. Additionally, I will be making a Deer and Doe Givre top for my final make in this series.
But, let me show you how I did this for my oldest daughter!
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List of Supplies:
Makes: 1 outfit
Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
Sewing skills needed/used: straight stitch, hemming, inserting a neckband
Skill Level: Advanced beginner
Items you need:
1 yard of fabric for sleeves and lower skirt (I used the Firework Sky in Liberty from Hawthorne Supply Co.
1/2 yard of fabric for the bodice (I used the Perfect Jersey in Navy from Stitchy Bee)
Pins
Safety pin
Serger (optional)
How to sew the Simplicity 8430 pattern
Step 1:
Gather the supplies and cut out the pattern pieces.
For this particular pattern, you will have a front bodice, a back bodice, two lower panels, two sleeves, and a neckband.
Step 2:
Place the two bodice pieces RIGHT sides together and stitch down the shoulder seams.
Ideally, you should press the seams, but I was pressed for time (sorry, but not sorry for the pun!). Pressing gives your garment a more professional look and ensures your seams are clean.
Step 3:
Stitch the neckband ends together and attach it to the bodice.
To make sure my neckbands are even, I use a method called quartering.
To do this, I place a pin at the center back seam and fold the neckband in half using this as a guide. Then, I place a pin at the opposite end. This will be the front end of the neckband.
Once those pins are in place, I use them as a guide to fold the neckband in half again. This time, the pins will be in the center versus at the ends of the folded neckband.
I place pins at the two ends of the folded neckband. There are now 4 pins that have essentially quartered the neckband.
This makes it easier to determine neckband placement. I start by securing the center front and center back pins to the appropriate places on the neck hole opening. Then, I secure the remaining side pins to their respective sides.
Step 4:
With RIGHT sides together stitch along the side seam of the sleeves and hem.
To do this, I used a 1/4” seam allowance to stitch the side seam of the sleeve. Then, I serged the seam and pressed it towards the back.
While I was at the serger, I also used it on the bottom edge of the sleeve.
With the sleeve WRONG side out, I turned the finished edge under 1/4” and hemmed the sleeve.
Step 5:
Insert the sleeves and stitch them in place.
To do this, I turned my bodice inside out then placed my sleeve (right side out) inside the bodice, so the RIGHT sides are facing each other.
I matched up the notches and side seams. Then, I worked my way up the sleeve.
*There is very little easing you have to do for the sleeve insertion.
Step 6:
With RIGHT sides together, sew the side seams of the lower panels together and hem the bottom edge.
To do this, I used a 1/4” seam allowance as I did for the sleeves. I also ran the edges through my serger to finish them.
The hem of this top has several curves and requires some easing and fiddling to get the hem to stay flat.
I used lots of pins and clips to help hold the hem in place before I stitched it down.
Some wrinkling is to be expected.
Go slow! It’s ok if it wrinkles slightly.
Step 7:
With RIGHT sides together, sew the bodice to the lower panel.
To do this, I turned my bodice inside out and lined up the bottom edge with the top edge of the lower panel, making sure to match the notches.
That’s it!
The top is ready to wear!
Tips and Tricks
If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to encase the edges.
You can also use pinking sheers to finish the edges. Jersey is typically not prone to fraying.
Use a ball or jersey needle on your sewing project.
I usually use a stitch length of 3. I find that it allows a smooth stitch and the material is less likely to bunch up.
Use LOTS of pins or clips to help secure the curved hems. The more pins you have the easier time you will have creating a smooth hem.
Choose your threads carefully. I chose a white thread for this entire project, but if I did it again, I would match the navy on the sleeves so the stitching is hidden.
I like to measure my daughter with each pattern. Some patterns do not follow typical sizing. For example, I’ve sewn a size 6 for my daughter because that’s the size she is in retail clothing, but in some patterns, she’s a size 4.
Always check the measurements before you begin a project!
Final Thoughts…
This pattern is one of my daughter’s favorites. I think I have made three different variations for her. (I lied! There have been 5 variations!)
I have tested and used this pattern at almost every size and I’ve been quite happy with the results! (And clearly, so is my daughter!)
I have never made any alterations to the pattern.
This pattern works with pretty much any type of jersey.
If you opt for a double-layered lower panel, I would use a lightweight knit fabric. You don’t want to add too much bulk to the waistline and if the fabric is heavy, it weighs the top down.
This pattern is definitely a favorite! I’m sure I will make plenty more of them!
Don’t forget, this particular sew-along is part of a three-part mommy and me and me too series!
You can check out the first make (for a baby sister) here and when I finish my Givre top I will post it here.
Until then, happy sewing!
I really hope you enjoyed this make! If you did please consider subscribing to my newsletter, so you never miss a new project!
