How to Honeycomb Smock
Looking to try your hand at a new sewing technique this year?
Or maybe you are finally ready to dip your toes into the world of historical costuming or cosplay…
Either way, join me as I take you step-by-step on our honeycomb smocking journey!
What is smocking?
I think the first and the most logical starting point is to explain what smocking is.
Smocking is a sewing technique that uses embroidery stitches to gather or pleat material. These gathers typically provide the garment with some stretch.
The earliest known use of this technique can be found in clothing from the middle ages. Unlike other embroidery techniques, smocking was used on laborers’ clothing to aid in the fit of the garment. Additionally, smocked material created tiny pockets of space in the fabric that helped with temperature control.
Historically, smocking was done on cottons and silks; however, as time progressed, the technique was adapted and applied to a variety of fabrics. This form of decorative smocking was used as a form of class or status symbol.
Smocking is completed before a garment is assembled. Since smocking reduces the size of a fabric piece from anywhere to a half to a fourth of its starting size, it is best to figure out the ‘shrinkage’ before you cut out your pattern piece.
After you have determined the reduction your smocking will cause, then you can mark out the template (typically a grid pattern of small dots on the wrong side of the fabric) for your smocking.
The grid is then temporarily stitched with running stitches before securing it with some form of anchor stitch.
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List of Supplies:
Makes: 1 smocked piece (this is also dependent on what you want to make.)
Estimated Time: 2-5 hours
Sewing skills needed/used: Running stitch, smocking techniques
Skill level: Beginner to advanced beginner
I will cover the dimensions I used for this project.
1 piece of fabric measuring 12'“ x 18”
1 piece of outer fabric measuring 12” x 18”
Needle
Coordinating thread
Fabric pen for marking (I use these Frixion pens)
Ruler
*The finished dimensions of my fabric are 12” x 5”
How to create honeycomb smocking…
Step 1:
Gather supplies and make sure your piece of fabric is cut to allow shrinkage.
*For this type of smocking you will lose inches on the width. My 18” shrunk to 5” (only 4” of which can be used to sew into my finished garment).
Step 2:
Mark out a grid on the WRONG side of the fabric.
For my smocking, I made 1/2” measurements for my grid.
*I am using this smocked piece in a dress for my daughter, so I wanted to make the smocking appropriate for her size.
*I marked my grid on the RIGHT side, but it won't matter since the ink from the Frixion pen disappears with heat.
Step 3:
Create gathering rows by sewing running stitches in the grid marked on the fabric.
To do this, I started on the WRONG side of the fabric and sewed running stitches across the width of the fabric.
These stitches are essentially basting stitches that will be removed once the project is compelete.
*Each new row will require a new thread.
Make sure all knots are on the same side of the fabric.
I started on the right and worked my running stitches to the left.
*I left roughly 6 inches of thread at the end of each row for the next step.
Step 4:
Gather the fabric.
To do this, I pulled on the tails of each row to gather the fabric down.
I worked my way up and down the fabric to gather the fabric evenly.
*I pulled three to four strings at a time to help speed this process along.
This is the WRONG side of my fabric.
The gathers/pleats are pulled taut.
Step 5:
Anchor your smocking stitches.
To do this, I started on the WRONG side and brought my needle up through the middle of the first gather/pleat.
I moved my needle out of the way and pinched two rows of gathers/pleats together.
*I will refer to these two pleats or gathers as channels.
I pushed my needle through the two gathers/pleats and created a small stitch.
I made sure my needle ran parallel with the running stitches.
*I stayed towards the top of each channel.
I repeated this process and made a second stitch in the same location to make sure the stitch was secure.
*You can see a tiny stitch on the top of the fabric.
To go back to the WRONG side and move on to the next set of gathers/pleats, I took my needle and went through the two pleats again; however, instead of coming out of the left side of the pleat, I dropped my needle in the second channel.
So, push through the first channel. Push through the right side of the second channel and drop the needle through the back.
You can see here where the needle comes out through the back of the channel.
Once you are on the back, you can come up through the next pleat/gather and repeat this process across the width of the fabric.
Continue this process across the width of your fabric.
I secured my thread to the WRONG side of the fabric. This was so I can start with a fresh thread for the next row.
When I got to the next row, I pushed the needle through the center of the second pleat.
Essentially, I need to offset this row of stitches.
On the first row, I stitched pleat 1 to pleat 2, and pleat 3 to pleat 4, and so on…
This row I need to stitch pleat 2 to pleat 3, and pleat 4 to pleat 5, and so on.
This will create that honeycomb effect.
Continue anchoring each row of stitches and work your way down your garment.
Once you reach the end, go back and pull out the running stitches you made at the beginning.
You just learned how to smock a garment!
Hot Tips
You will need to manipulate and pull those running threads tight as you work your way down the fabric.
Longer tails = a tangled mess. Trim them (but not too short) as you are working.
I liked to secure my stitches at the end of each row I anchored. This is not necessary, but it made me feel more comfortable in case a stitch decided to break. I would only lose a row of smocking versus several.
Smocked pieces should be lined once they are complete. This will prevent snagging from occuring.
I started removing the basting/running stitches as I was working to reduce the number of threads I had to fight with. I only did this after I completed two rows of stitches.
Smaller grid = more shrinkage. Larger grid = less shrinkage.
Test out a small sample to see how much your piece will shrink before attempting to smock a piece of expensive fabric.
Final thoughts…
I usually reserve this section for things that I would do differently, but I don’t think this fits this technique.
There are many things I would like to try out with this technique, including sleeves!
I wanted to learn how to smock because I wanted to challenge myself this year. I want to learn new techniques, build better garments, and push the limits of my sewing knowledge.
This particular type of smocking is what I would consider basic smocking or beginner smocking. Therefore, I thought this would be a perfect place to start.
Even though my finished piece is small, it will work beautifully in my daughter’s dress. It will give her bodice some interest and elegance. Stay tuned to see the progress on that dress!
If you would like to join me in challenging your sewing skills, make sure you follow me on Instagram to see what skill we will be tackling each month!
If you follow this tutorial and make a honeycomb smocked garment, tag me #darkkfluridesigns to show it off!
